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About RedRag

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  • Birthday 01/01/1958

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  1. I think we all balance multi-bladed helicopters. Haven't had the honor of working on a single bladed head...Sorry had to take that shot. Agreed on getting involved with dymanic balance by committe. If I have the chance, I'll go off in the corner by myself. Granted the best ride doesn't always come from the blades being in perfect track. The 407 really goes faster if you take the time in the ground and hover runs to get the track within a couple milimeters total spread. They might not end up there at VNE but to not doing it usually causes you to start chasing yout tail.
  2. The 407 can turn into project to get balanced. I do the ground (35%Q) runs until the track is dead on. The do the same for hover. Seems like overkill but it works. Make sure the PC rod ends are centered top and bottom on the threads. More than once I've run into runing out of threads and had to start over. You'll hear "roll against tab" on this head you have to do it sometimes (tab up/Pc Down) to get the right effect of the weight. If it starts turning into a marathon session and you cant get either low speed or high speed to both come below limits, start looking at the corner moun
  3. I've run both IPS and Filters. I'll take the filter everytime. The losses just having the particle separator panel installed make the engine run hotter. Over time that's what kills the turbine wheels. As far as getting dust out of the air, the IPS gets big stuff but light sand still gets through and eats the compressor. Worst thing is when you need to run the bleed air for the discharge, is just when you need the power and have to shut it off. Pulled off the IPS on a 407, installed the AFS kit. Instant jump of +15 on the powercheck. Also I'd watch which filter system you buy. The FDC
  4. Have one and don't wear it much.
  5. Here's my spin on this. We have so much gee whiz stuff installed, we finally ran out of room in a 407. There is zero space for ANYTHING. What drove this was people going to trade shows and coming home with all the new great ideas. We have stuff installed that half the people here don't know how to operate! Add to that the never ending ICA requirements and support from some of the companies that make the "gee whiz" had to have it stuff, sucks. Two years ago things changed..finally. Maintenance and pilots got to say what goes in. New gee whiz stuff requires that something get
  6. I had a similar 407 problem a few years ago. I know it sounds strange but you might want to check the freewheel unit.
  7. One of these for servicing the servo accumulators. http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0072/
  8. RedRag


    ACES 2020 works great for me.
  9. The 407 head is a strange one. I've balanced a lot of helicopters but, the 407 seems to do some strange things. Even with the "new" mast that eliminates the middle cones and reduced the chance of the hub shifting. Not sure why some of the moves work.... Dana should know where the polar chart that Jim Fackler made about 15 years ago can be found. I have a copy somewhere, it makes sense out of some of the moves. Never been a big fan of the RADS. On the 407 I usually get some chicken feet, a bat wing and some goat blood, toss with the head weights and see what happens. I don't
  10. Switched from carbox-x to X-it wash from Aviall about a 6 months ago. Works well, rinses off easy and it apparently non-toxic. http://www.pantheonchemical.com/documents/...0Wash%20PDS.pdf Red
  11. Got two from these guys. 600 gallon with velcon filter. Runs on two 12v truck batteries. Works great. http://fueltrailersaviation.com/home.asp Red
  12. My rule for all 250's is a chip on an upper plug is far worse than the lower. The lower one will catch any thing from the engine gearbox and there are lots of possibilities. Upper one, is bearings. Can be real bad real fast. If the #1 bearing makes metal, it ususally comes apart pretty quick and there goes the compressor. IF the chips or chunks are bronze coloured on tne upper plug, look at #1 bearing. Good thing about the upper one is that you can figure out where the metal is coming from pretty easily disconnecting the return lines and cranking the starter. We only run
  13. On the coast and been using Royco 22MS. Works well, no corrosion issues here.
  14. Watch which one you get. There are three out there. The two older ones with the turn buckles have different thickness ends that fit on on the shaft. The new one with the white plastic blocks and wing nuts doesn't work on older shafts. Not sure if there's a -# shaft that corresponds to a tool or not. For what the **** shaft costs, Kamatics ought to give you one with the driveshaft. I "know a guy" that had to use nylon tie down straps once......
  15. On the older 109's (A, MKII, C's) have a really good sheet metal guy handy. The tail boom and most of the structure seems more prone to cracking than most airframes I've delt with. Wiring in between the gearwells is usually a greasy mess that needs replaced. Not sure how the support is in the Sperry autopilot electroncs is anymore. If you're operating somewhere with lots of rain or snow, the tail rotor always seems to need balanced. Actually the tail is maintenance pig. No elastomerics, all shims and seems to get chewed up. Gearboxes are solid, head spews 30 weight oil so
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