Bell 206 Lubrication

[Heliian]

Plastilub #3(no moly) would be my weapon of choice and Aerosheil 22 for the head(you can tell when it's dirty much more easily than 28).In the end, each product will get the job done. More importantly, proper servicing will prevent most brinelling and corrosion issues. Chap.12 also says to service if the aircraft is washed, flew through rain or sat outside in a heavy dew.

[skidkicker]

"Chap.12 also says to service if the aircraft is washed, flew through rain or sat outside in a heavy dew."

 

No kidding, some jetrangers we dont see for the full 100 hours and Im sure that it hasn't been greased at all. I have carpal-tunnel just from greasing the medium last summer alone.( 130 hrs and 15 grease jobs).

 

I can say sundsrand is used in some shops but it hardens over time but don't use g355, its too thin.

[skidkicker]

Oh ya,

 

"Contact the MFG's manuals for appropriate consumables to be used in each specific application"

[Heliian]

ya, technically it has to be done every 50hr under normal climactic conditions for the 206 head and t/r head. One company I worked for didn't ever enforce it and the responsibility was left to the pilots. Almost every head that came in was scrap at the first inspection.

[Helismart]

ya, technically it has to be done every 50hr under normal climactic conditions for the 206 head and t/r head. One company I worked for didn't ever enforce it and the responsibility was left to the pilots. Almost every head that came in was scrap at the first inspection.

 

 

It is unfortunate that the greasing is left to the pilot especially when their concentrating on the flying aspect, but with proper training and an insight into what can happen as an end result of improper greasing they may take more interest. I have found a great number of main rotor heads with blown excluders due to improper greasing techniques. What I have found in some cases is that some organizations do not replace excluders at a mid life inspection. As a rule I do change them and have had good results especially when it comes time to replace the straps at the 24 month period.

[Heliian]

Agreed, I replace all of those seals and orings everytime and especially the input shaft boots at the 600hr inspection. All of these parts cost a lot less than having an overheated coupling or having to replace the yoke, not to mention the labour and downtime.

[Helismart]

Agreed, I replace all of those seals and orings everytime and especially the input shaft boots at the 600hr inspection. All of these parts cost a lot less than having an overheated coupling or having to replace the yoke, not to mention the labour and downtime.

 

Prior to installing the grip bearings, one should thoroughly force the grease (hand pack) into the cages of the bearings and not just run your finger around them as I have seen done in the past.

In the last 15 months I have scrapped a box $$$$ full of bearings that were rusted and corroded through lack of grease, especially the most inboard bearings. I had on one occation removed the bearings for cleaning and found half of one roller missing, I've got great photos.

In addition, eight rollers fell out of their cages as I was cleaning the bearing (RBC made the bearings, BHT is getting rid of them and replacing them with McGill bearings)

 

Cheers