Balancing 206 T/r

[ray]

Throw the chart and the corrector in the garbage.

 

My bad for giving poor advice.

 

If you haven't done something before, disregard the manuals and the toolings, bojang the installation, and just 'make it work'.

 

On the 177, make the correction as per the chart. If the correction plots towards the center line but misses to the right, adjust the weight one hole clockwise.

If the correction moves to the left of the center, move the adjustment weight one hole counter-clockwise.

[swede]

Throw the chart and the corrector in the garbage.

 

My bad for giving poor advice.

 

If you haven't done something before, disregard the manuals and the toolings, bojang the installation, and just 'make it work'.

 

I'm hearing a little sarcasm in your "voice". The Chadwick charts and corectors are designed for a generic aircraft. Chances are (at least in my experiance) your machine will behave differently from the Chadwick Aircrafts.

Learn how and why the box is telling you what it is. Its not PFM. Make a chart for your aircraft. All weights will be different and so will angles. Once you actualy learn the 2000 you don't have to or neccisarily want to do what it tells you to do but make your own moves.

Another peice of advice when learning how to balance anything wether M/R or T/R. Get the Aircraft away from the hanger where you will have ten people telling you ten different moves to make. Ask for help when needed, but learn the system on your own. Trust me...Its far less confusing to figure out the PFM than it is to have the Ops Manager, Cheif Pilot, DOM and every engineer on the floor barking over your shoulder.

There's another two cents for y'all

Swede

[2B1]

I appreciate all the feed back. You guys saved me a few runs for sure, got it done in five runs. Started off at 1.5 IPS and brought it in from there. Thanks again guys.

[212wrench]

just a thought, if you started at 1.5 I suggest you static balance it first. Thats a pretty high starting IPS

[newt]

ive actually had a T/R go wonky because of a tight trunnion just for future reference if people seem to be getting moves that dont make sense.

 

i have to agree with the throwing the corrector out. i still prefer using a 177 over a 2000 for doing a T/R actually though or using the strobe rather then the photocell......with the photocell i usually think upside and backwards...but the wrong way.

 

and 1.5 seems high to start. is it a new T/R? if not...how are the feathering bearings?

[2B1]

newt,

 

Old blades new yoke. Didn't have access to a static balancer.

[freakadapter]

Leave the chart corrector at the bottom of the box. Mount the accelerometer pointing up ( cable going down ), mount the photocell anywhere. Make sure you have clean or new reflective tape on one of the blades. Mark the target blade target, or T, on the balance wheel then mark A,B and C on the balance wheel at 3:00 O'clock , 6:00 O'clock and 9:00 from The target blade. Flash her up and take your first reading. Plot it on your chart or in the dirt for that matter. Remember to keep the chart corrector at a safe distance from your chart. Add weight at any of the positions on the balance wheel. Do another run then plot it. Remove weight previously added then add same weight to a position 90 degrees from first position. Do a run then plot it. From your second and third runs you should be able exptrapolate what weight and where you have to to put it to balance your TR. Remember the three rules to balancing; 1. Do not listen to anyone else when your balancing. 2. Record the adjustments you make and do the adjustments you record. 3. Make one move at a time. When your done, pile all the equipment on the chart corrector. Good luck.