Balancing 206 T/r

[2B1]

I am new to working on the 206. I will be using the Chadwick 2000. Going to be balancing a T/R in a few days, any advice would be appreciated. Thanks,

[RedRag]

Static balalce it first if anything got changed. Other than that, 206 series is pretty straight forward if you follow the manual

[BRZRKR]

If things go squirrely, it could be a loose trunnion or bad static. If the liner in your knurled nut is bad, that can send things squirelly as well.

[ray]

If you're using a Chadwick 2000, you have to use the chart corrector.

 

The photocell will pick up your target blade at the 7:00 clock position.

Use this as the 12:00 position on your chart corrector.

Use the corrector for the counter-clockwise blade.

(Because the photo-cell is reading the blade counter-clockwise, the graph is based on you looking at it clockwise.)

 

After you plot the ips and clock angle, remove the corrector and see where the weight needs to be added using the original graph numbers.

[settlewithpower]

You will need the chart corrector for sure. Also make sure the photocell is directly opposite the accelerometer across the center of rotation of the output shaft . When you get yer IPS and clock angle, put the target blade to the indicated clock angle using the chart corrector (Photocell is 12:00) and add weight opposite the accelerometer..... Works great..... If not, check trunnion centering/play (been an issue i've encountered in the past).

Good Luck

[ame206350]

If you're using a Chadwick 2000, you have to use the chart corrector.

 

The photocell will pick up your target blade at the 7:00 clock position.

Use this as the 12:00 position on your chart corrector.

Use the corrector for the counter-clockwise blade.

(Because the photo-cell is reading the blade counter-clockwise, the graph is based on you looking at it clockwise.)

 

After you plot the ips and clock angle, remove the corrector and see where the weight needs to be added using the original graph numbers.

 

Good call Ray. Didn't know you had much Jetranger time. I'll add that sometimes you get a better reading with the accelerometer mounted on the vertical stab (as opposed to mounting it on the trgb cowling).

[swede]

My two cents.

Throw the chart and the corrector in the garbage. Mount the accelerometer and photocell on the top of gearbox. Why not make the 12:00 at 12:00. KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid). Then take your reading. Move blade to that clock angle, rember to view T/R from G/B like the photocell. Add your weight opposite accelerometer. GET RID of the chart. you can use same technique with Main Rotor as well. works great.

swede

[offset]

I'm with you Swede never have used the corrector but some people swear by it.

If you look at the T/R from the photocell's view you can usaully get it in a couple of run's. That being said I have had things go badly and taken WAY more than a couple. So sometimes its not as straight forward as it should be.

The vibrex 2000 is a good unit compared to an old 177 its way simpler. But the ACES system is the cats *** makes it so easy you forget how to do it the old way.

 

 

 

[BRZRKR]

Any hints on the 177? We still use one and I find it more PFM than systematic.

[RedRag]

I'll second that on the ACES system. Went to the 2020 several years ago... Nice to sit in the cabin rather than stand in the rain when shooting a tail.

 

As for hints on the 177, we used to add chicken feet, eye of a bat and a few bits of saftey wire to the correction. If you have a loose trunnion, you might want to consider somesort of sacrifice, maybe a goat to please the balance gods.

 

A trick I used on the 177 or 192A was to keep a notebook on how much weight it actually takes to make a correction. On the 206L I want to say it was someting like 12gms/ip. Also, I had a "test weight" that I used every time. Painted it orange and it was heavy enough to get a good move line on the chart. Used it on the first run to get an idea how things were going to go.