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Apparently I'm Going To Work On Astars...


Kramer

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Thanks for all of the suggestions so far.

 

 

I'm not worried about the laptop for Open350, that's provided. I am worried about actually understanding Open350, but that's a bit of a different matter... The nitrogen gauge/regulator, I doubt I'll need, since we've got a couple that get passed around the fleet as needed. Hopefully. I've got a Fluke meter and several large hammers, since both work well on Bell products. I'm sure they can get thrown in my Astar box as needed...

 

 

Looks like I'll have to track down the Strap-On truck for a few things though. Although, the list of required tools doesn't seem that long. Turns out I have some 12-point ratcheting box ends, and some offsets, all strap-on and shiny new.

 

 

What about torque wrenches? I have a 40-200in-lb, and a 10-75ft-lb one in my bags... That should cover most things?

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"The 12 point deeps are an absolute, along with 6,7,8 ratcheting wrenches."

 

If I may ask, where do you need the 12pt deep sockets as opposed to regular 6pt?

 

Thanks guys for the tips on the A-Star tools. Cheers

I'm off to NLC for the LTS-101 course starting tomorrow... wish me luck.

 

cheers

 

 

All the split line bolts on the arriel engine are 12 point.

 

cheers,

RTR

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Not mentioned yet are some larger sockets, 1/2" drive 22,30,32 12+13mm 1/4" crows feet. drain tools are very nice too. Mac tools makes a 22/24mm offset box end that I carry for the head work as well.

 

you may want a 50-250 Ftlb tq. wrench, but you can live without it just fine too.

 

Will you be working on B3's or B4's??

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All engine hardware is 12 point.

 

Grab some metric allen wrenches.

 

A 6mm Allen wrench socket with a 1/2 inch drive for removing the anti-vibrator.

 

13mm crowsfoot for driveshaft torques.

 

A lot of the bigger sockets are interchangeable with standard sockets.

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Probably not. B2s mostly.

 

well either way, a good multi meter with Hz measurement capability down to a resolution of at least .00, .000 is best though.

 

On the FADEC machines(B3,B4) the ability to measure insulation resistance at 50V will help with troubleshooting FADEC/VEMD failures.

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One thing to get, that only the pros use, is the snap-on short'n'fat dzus driver for taking off the xsmn cowlings. You can use a big standard screwdriver but you'll start stripping the dzus out. Contact cleaner and some Stabilent 22 should take care of most electrical snags.

 

Once you get workin on em, you'll know pretty quick what you need but this forum is definitely a great start. Man, I wish I had such good information when I started.

 

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  • 1 month later...
All engine hardware is 12 point.

 

On an Astar the only 12 point socket you will need is 7mm, which nice to have in the shallow as well as universal. When traveling I bring those two, as well as a complete 6-point 1/4" drive set in standard and metric. 9mm for the rear mag seal is nice to have, but for six screws the combination wrench that is already in the box works just fine.

Gearwrenchs are the order of the day. I have 6,7,8,10 and 13mm. I also have a few Snappy offset wrenches; 10,12,13,14, and 17mm, which are nice, but not necessary.

4mm (1/4" drive) and 6mm (3/8" drive) hex drive sockets are a must, ball end on the 4 but not the 6 if possible. The 4mm is one you have to have but hope not to use... Unless one enjoys the smell of jet fuel. :mellow:

 

 

 

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